Back to the Bay of Islands

After many months of planning, Rhonda Press and Larry Ragent, our dear, dear friends from San Mateo finally arrived on a much-anticipated 3-week visit to New Zealand...and to see us!  At the end of their trip, we went together on a 3-day visit to one of our favorite places, Paihia in the Bay of Islands (about 4 hours north of Auckland).

 Rhonda and Larry

The timing couldn't have been more perfect.  Our visit to Paihia overlapped with Waitangi Day, an annual 2-day event that commemorates the signing of the Waitangi Treaty of 1840.  The Treaty made New Zealand a part of the British Empire, guaranteed Maori rights to their land and gave Maori the rights of British subjects.  Sounds good, no?  But alas, things were not as they seemed.  There were differences between the English and Maori versions of the Treaty, which has led to debate over exactly what was agreed to at Waitangi.  Since 1971, Waitangi and Waitangi Day have become a focus of protest concerning treaty injustices and other issues.

So it was a day of contrasts.   On one hand, there were joyous festivities.  Many war canoes were launched in the bay.

ceremonial war canoe Ngātokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest. The 35-metre-long canoe needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. It weighs 6 tonnes when dry and 12 tonnes when saturated. - See more at: http://www.waitangi.org.nz/treaty-grounds/#the-war-canoe

ceremonial war canoe Ngātokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest. The 35-metre-long canoe needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. It weighs 6 tonnes when dry and 12 tonnes when saturated. - See more at: http://www.waitangi.org.nz/treaty-grounds/#the-war-canoe

ceremonial war canoe Ngātokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest. The 35-metre-long canoe needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. - See more at: http://www.waitangi.org.nz/treaty-grounds/#the-war-canoe

ceremonial war canoe Ngātokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest. The 35-metre-long canoe needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water. - See more at: http://www.waitangi.org.nz/treaty-grounds/#the-war-canoe

War canoes

It was especially exciting to see Ngatokimatawhaorua, the largest ceremonial war canoe in the world.  It is 35 meters long and needs a minimum of 76 paddlers to handle it safely on the water.

Ngātokimatawhaorua

Ngatokimatawhaorua war canoe

Close-up of canoe with chief

There were Kapahaka dancers,

This group was the five-time national Kapahaka champion

 This group was the current Tai Tokerau Regional Kapahaka champion

and a Navy band:

 Navy marching band

I noticed this finely dressed military officer and was curious about his cape.  So, I went up to him to say hello and he introduced himself as Rear Admiral Jack Steer, the supreme commander of the New Zealand Navy.  He was a very typical Kiwi:  friendly and unassuming.  Delightful!

 Rear Admiral Steer

There was a festival atmosphere with lots of food booths, art and community services:

Rhonda and me wandering around the grounds

And there were peaceful protests.  Besides protests against the meaning of the treaty, there were signs protesting various environmental issues.

  These protesters were holding the national Maori flag

 Protesters against oil drilling on Maori land

Other environmental protests

After we left the festival, we walked back to Paihai and came upon a formal ceremony where the Navy received a charter from the Mayor John Carter of Northland. This a picture of the mayor reviewing the troops.  Believe it or not, he personally greeted each and every naval member.  Our friend the Rear Admiral received the charter.

Mayor Carter reviewing the troops

The next day we took Larry and Rhonda back to our favorite island, Urapukapuka.  We were first there at the beginning of January and were lucky enough to return with our friends.

The four of us on the track near the Cliff Pa (former Maori defensive settlement)

 Spectacular views...

 ...from every angle...

... and in every direction.